New York fall/winter ‘06 runway rundown
02.10.06, 5:14 pm
filed under: fashion

New York Fashion Week is wrapping up today. My excitement peaked this morning with the Project Runway show. Pictures from the show are online. I’ll discuss what I think of the collections — and the season as a whole — closer to the finale, but my opinions are pretty much in stone already because I’m me and I do that. I liked two collections, and I strongly disliked two collections. I am very surprised by how I feel about which collections. I really can’t tell who the decoy designer is, but I have a strong suspicion.

On to the pros. I’m just going to talk about the shows that boated my float.

Alice Roi had this appealing schoolgirl meets Wednesday Addams meets librarian-taking-her-glasses off vibe. The color palette is a little washed out for my taste, however, as I am a pale, pale girl and must think of these things. I do adore the blackish, purplish lipstick on Roi’s models.

Gen Art looks like it will be knocked off and shipped to an Urban Outfitters to you ASAP. I would not be opposed.

Jenni Kayne, who is L.A.-based, exhibited a nice, if safe, cohesive collection. Kayne’s designs look like they’d work very well on non-model bodies. One thing that continually disappoints me about Roi is that she designs for waifs despite being very much a non-waif herself. Again, though, I am not crazy about her warm color palette. I am all for browns, but these yellow-ish tones hold no appeal.

Marc Jacobs, always a favorite, did not disappoint me. His collection was this, like, throwback to the early nineties. I elect to ignore the big hats (because why?), but the muted greys, the layered, gentle shaping, and the pop of rich maroons were just stunning. Possibly the most exciting thing about the collection was just how dressed Jacobs’s models were. It seems like a no brainer to actually cover up for fall and winter, yet few designers do. Jacobs’s girls, with their adorkable gloves, looked like they could actually brave nippy weather. My friend Andrea bemoaned the lack of good looking, warm clothes this year. The success of this collection should lead to improvements come fall. This is my third favorite collection of the season.

Luella Bartley, whose Target collection I discussed recently, offered more of the same. If you’re going to be same-y, it helps that you’re doing punk schoolgirl, and that you do it well. There wasn’t a lot individually for me to be excited about here. I look forward to people knocking off Luella further so that Luellaesque touches can be incorporated into broader wardrobe schemes.

Monique Lhuillier offered her usual glamour, and this is a very good thing indeed. I love her peacock blue fabric and updating of 50s silhouettes.

Nanette Lepore earns my second favorite nod. Her influences are all over the place — buttoned down priss, flirty socialite, Asian elegance, 40s Hollywood — and it works. Her use of rich reds offset with greys and taupes look so yummy for winter. I’m actually incorporating quite a lot of burgundy into my winter/spring [whatever season I live in] wardrobe now, so no surprise I’m drawn to this. A lot of her designs would look great on my long, curvy, short-waisted body, and that is a challenge. Also, FYI, Lepore blogged Fashion Week (How refreshing is it to see models with red eye?).

By far, the runaway show for me this season was Marc by Marc Jacobs. This is Marc’s slightly younger, more reasonably priced line. You know the quibble I had over palette in Jacobs’s other show? Yeah, no quibbles here. The royal blue he showed with the black and charcoal is fresh and yummy. Bruise is the new black . . . or something. Military inspired with empire and drop waists, slouchy, easy, and comfortable, god, this collection was fabulous. I want to own almost everything here. I bought a sewing machine recently; this collection makes me wish I knew how to construct garments. Like his other collection, Jacobs has dressed his models as if winter fashion may run concurrent with winter weather. I am smitten.


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